I took the
plane from Harbin to Beijing on the Sunday before the trip. Beijing I won’t spend inordinate amounts of
time describing – it is not, after all, the intent of this series to be
describing Beijing, but to be describing the Silk Road. So!
Suffice it to say I tooled around Beijing’s hutongs for a day or so
before heading on out to the airport on the first of October.
Now, the
October Holiday, in China, is one of the long holidays. You may know it as the Golden Week; in China
it’s also called the National Day Holiday (国庆节). Schools, offices, and other places of work are
generally given a week off (but with makeup days added on the weekends for the weekdays
missed – in China, three-day-wekeends aren’t three-day-weekends; you have to
make up the weekdays missed on the weekend days), and overall, people take the opportunity
to travel. Not everyone can – some people
are constrained by work (restaurants, shops, etc), some by other duties, some simply
by the wish not to be crushed by that enormous migration. But still: imagine 200 million people making
up their minds to Vacation, and imagine
those 200 million buying up every bus, plane, and train ticket they can get
their hands on.
A word of
advice to the Alert Reader of this blog:
Don’t. Just don’t. Don’t ever go to Beijing during the October
Holiday.
Why
not? Well, if I have to spell it out:
imagine Tiananmen Square at full capacity – a giant open-air square filled with
so many people you can’t turn around without bumping into someone. Imagine two hundred thousand – I’ll write
that out in numbers so it looks as big as it is – 200,000 people circulating
through the Forbidden City in one day.
In one day. Have you seen the pictures of the Great
Wall filled with people? No? Go.
Google it. “Great Wall October.” I’ll wait.
Back? Yes?
That’s why.
Now, the Perspicacious
Reader may be wondering: “Oy, Ekscursionist!
Aren’t you just the biggest hypocrite?
You’re telling me not to travel on that holiday, yet here you are,
travelling on that holiday! HAH.”
And I’d
say, “shush, Reader, I have my reasons.”
My reasons
are these: it’s a week-long holiday: of course I’m going to do
something. I’ve lived
long enough in China, though, that I know to pick my battles. And this battle was won early – a month
before the holiday went into action.
I bought my
tickets for the trip at China Culture Center (http://www.chinaculturecenter.org/)’s
website. CCC has three prices for its
trips: the early bird, the normal, and the latecomer. You buy your tickeys early, you see a couple
hundred fewer kuai of price, and you also can recline upon your ticket-buying
laurels, secure in the knowledge that someone else is going to be doing that
frantic ticket-buying and scrambling for seats, and that that someone else is
Not You. In short, you prep early for
October Holiday, you take a tour rather than fight the crowds, and you
have got your ducks in a row.
(Note that
I have, in fact, gone through the fun-filled fight-the-crowds experience enough times to
be able to tell you: you do not want to do it.
It will turn you into a hot, sweaty, temporary misanthrope. So, though I generally don’t spring for
tours, this one’s a weighing of convenience over pain and relaxation over
irritation. Kids? On October Holiday, spring for the tour.)
At the airport,
we had a particular meeting place and time – one Alex was meant to be there,
meeting us by one of the entrances. I
duly met Alex, but, as it turned out, no one else did. I very quickly found out that this is one of
those tours where, rather than travelling as a group, you’re instead thrown
together incidentally and actually regroup once you’re on the tour itself. Thus, I ended up talking to a few of my travelmates
before flying, but didn’t actually meet them til we landed.
The flight
was an evening one: the sun was going down to the right of and behind the
plane, under a clear sky and over a Beijing haze. We flew over mountains in the dark, and
landed in Dunhuang airport at 9pm, in full dark. So my first impression of Dunhuang was based
not on the land, which I couldn’t see, but on the two things I met that
evening: the airport map, and the hotel.
In the
airport, after getting my bag and meeting the tour guide outside the baggage
carrels, I gravitated toward a map on the wall.
I wanted to read up on the places we were to go.
This map is
a delightfully accurate look at Dunhuang: this city is made of its sights, and
aside from the sights, there’s barely a city.
I saw this, in full glory, from the dune the next day: the city really does
look like that map – long, single lines of streets with small clusters of
tourist-buildings around the main sights – and then nothing.
The nothing
at that point was darkness, though. I
didn’t know what kind of landscape to fill it in with. So I went out to the tourbus and sat down.
In typical style,
the seat you first claim on your first day is the seat you have from
then-on-out. I grabbed myself the first
seat behind the driver because I like to get a good view, and the others filed
into their respective places. The bus
was curiously empty – our tour guide, Christie, didn’t tell us why. She just bundled us on and had us driven, through
dark and empty streets, past long stretches of nothing punctuated with
bright-lit hotels and tourist sights, about an hour out to our hotel.
Our hotel
was – there’s no other way to put it – a spectacle. It was done up in the style of a great old
fort, with imposing sand-colored walls and turrets on top of the roof, and Chinese
gables on all of the roof-corners. Huge
red signs above the main doors proclaimed that this was the DUNHUANG VILLA. (Its English name, the Silk Road Dunhuang
Hotel, is much more lackluster). Its
arched entrance had ten-foot gables swinging majestically over the driveway.
This was the
entrance hall:
And, as I
always say, when you’ve got three floors of columned entrance hall filled with
twenty-foot murals, you’ve gotta be compensating for something, amirite?
… okay, maybe
that’s not a joke that works, but the point is sound: this lobby is magnificent! Majestic!
Grande with an E on the end! But it
is precisely in this grandeness that this lobby is clear in its aim: you have
entered the Impress You Zone.
Let me note
here that Chinese folks and Westerners come at tourism from very differing
angles. In the West, folks, want to see
difference, and they want to see it in comfort.
They want to see what make This
Place unlike their own – they want to see those oddities that make the place “foreign”. There’s a wide variety of this: some people (like
me) want to see what daily life in this place might be like; some people want
to experience everything in new ways; some people want to see the amazing,
impressive stuff; some people want variety and no repeats; some people want the
stunning, flashy tricks, with all the lights and sound effects.
In China,
tourism is different. There is overlap –
big sights, yes, foreign places, yes yes.
But three things that are often parts of Chinese tours are Spectacles,
Photo-Ops, and Shopping.
1.) Spectacles: sometimes a place is beautiful on its own. Sometimes, though, in the Chinese tourism industry, it is considered necessary to the touristic value of the place to add to it a certain je ne sais quois, and here by “I don’t know what” I actually mean “tourist trap”. Spectacles are constructed in front of, behind, around, and among tourist sights in China – Potempkinlike structures that can often be eyesores, and serve no purpose other than…
2.) The Photo Op. In China, taking pictures is elevated past a pastime: it is what the trip is all about! Selfies with Spectacles are popular, since the Spectacles are big and flashy and show your opulence and ability to travel – and isn’t that what travel’s about?* Often, in Chinese tours, you’re given X amount of time to view a thing and take pictures with it, and then you’re rushed off to the next thing to take picturesof that, and so forth, all the way until you arrive at …
3.) Shopping! A great tendency on Chinese tours is to stuff in a visit to a shopping district, to sanctioned or sponsored stores that cooperate with the tour company in order to sell things, sometimes at force. I’ve been on tours – several of them – where they’ve locked tourists out of the bus until a certain amount of sales were made. I’ve also been on tours where Chinese tourists were eager to make those purchases, and spent more than the allotted time in the shopping area, buying local products they couldn’t get at home.
* Let me
note here that, of course, there’s ugly tourists and good tourists of every
stripe in every country. This I
know. But I will also note that there’s
a far greater tendency for Chinese tourists to prefer Spectacle and Photo-Ops
than other countries’ tourists I’ve seen. I’ll give more example of this in
later posts.
So! The Impress You Zone: that area of tourism
that makes the tourist either “Wow!” or “well … there’s that.” This hotel had a little of both: the thirty-foot
murals of historical splendor were both impressive and gaudy; the bossed
ceiling with octagonal lights was both pretty and ostentatious. I’ve experienced a lot of this in China:
mixed reactions, with one reaction being the sought-after one, and the other battling
it and saying “yes, but!” In this
particular case, I accepted the ostentation as a given, and just set out to
enjoy the hotel.
We checked
into rooms, and immediately there was issue: Christie had picked up the second
half of our group earlier in the day, and to hear them speak of it, she hadn’t
actually been there to pick them up – she’d just sent the driver. She proved less than helpful in the room
issue as well, booking private-room people with double-room people without
notice or prior knowledge of either party.
(Note that among the three tour operators we experienced, Christie was
by far my least favorite – neither helpful nor informative, nor particularly
caring of her charges.) It took some
phone-calling and arrangement, but finally we were in our proper rooms, and
most folks bedded down for the night.
I decided
to go exploring.
The
Dunhuang Villa became my favorite of the hotels we experienced on that
trip. It’s not only that the rooms were cool
– small, high-ceilinged, with exposed-wood rafters and traditional weavings on
the chairs and quilts, and a tiny complimentary stuffed camel For You – but
also the surroundings were so extraordinarily extravagant. Wood ceilings and floors. Beautiful rugs linings the walls. Clearly this was a hotel determined to
Provide For You, and that’s what it was going to do, to the best of its
ability. I wandered the inside first –
three floors constructed, fortlike, around a central courtyard, and bizarre
signage along the way:
Now,
looking at that sign, you’ve got to have figured out what I wanted to see. But I restrained myself, going around the
hotel methodically. I went out the front
and explored the outer buildings – the restaurant was a whole separate complex,
complete with courtyard and huge red doors, closed now for the night. Behind that was the garden of the place –
queerly bare of ground, no grasses or flowers, just shrubs and willows with the
occasional poplar.
The garden
led in perpendicular paths to the Health Center, which was an interesting
interlude on its own: a complex of buildings with a central covered walkway
down its central courtyard. To the left,
empty windows. To the right, on the
gravel, several long lounge chairs had been set up, and several hotelgoers were
being massaged by young women, most of whom sat up to watch The Westerner go
by. Inside, the man at reception was
eager to show me around – he gave me a list of massages and prices and showed
me several rooms that were all the same – bed with towel on it, chair. Then, though, with great pride, he introduced
me to the VIP room. A large bed with a
towel on it. A large TV mounted upon the
wall, cabinet and candles and bowl set altarlike underneath. A large shower taking up the entire corner of
the room, the walls around it made of plexiglass. A large, full-length mirror along the wall. And, on the wall next to the door, a large, full-color,
blown-up photograph of an attractive couple caught coitus interruptus.
Leaving the
Health Center slightly faster than I had entered it, I returned to the
garden. Signs showed me that the Ghenghis
Khan Camp Fire Party was somewhere to my left, and I made for it. I found the Courtyard Villas along the way (a
villa in a villa? I guess they were feeling
invilladated.) – small-sized gravel courtyards
with a donut of rooms surrounding them; the rooms were curtained with more
traditional weavings, and the courtyards had little lounge-chairs with magazine
racks, and little long tables with full tea-ceremony duds along them. The magazines were all tourist things, about
the trips you Could Be Taking, although one magazine rack definitely had
Confucius’ Analects stuffed into its wicker folder.
The Courtyard
Villas were, luckily, right across from the Ghenghis Khan Camp Fire Party, so I
crossed the path and went to that. After
all this searching, it ended up being a bit of a letdown – there were a few
slightly-greasy picnic tables and benches, a few propane-burning stoves and
grills, a couple grass-covered tents and enclosures, and what would probably,
in the Season, be a bar, but at the moment was just a sad little wire rack
standing behind the grill-counter. Desert
dirt and gravel crunched underfoot, and over to the left, construction went on,
despite it was eleven PM already, with giant bright lights leaking out acrosst the
Camp Fire Party.
But if you
covered the ground and the lights from your view and looked up, you could see
the stars. Not perfectly, not as bright
as they could’ve been out in the open desert, but still enough that you could
see the haze of the Milky Way stretched along the middle of the sky, with the few
familiar constellations outshone in brightness, fading into the rest of the stars.
I headed
back through the carpeted halls to my room, where my unexpected roommate was
going in the direction of sleep. I
figured that was a pretty good direction to be heading, and we went to sleep
around midnight, on the sixty-fourth anniversary of the founding of the PRC.